INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING THE CHXL SILICONE SPARK PLUG BOOT AND STAINLESS STEEL PLUG CAP

For 5/8 and 3/4 inch hex plugs. For 10mm plugs also see info below.
 
First, examine the spark plug lead to see if OK to install a new boot and cap. If the plug wire is covered with heat shrink and it is worn through to the metal braid, this will not hurt just clean it off and put some tape on it. If the braid is worn through but not worn into the plug lead core, wrap it with some kind of braid and tape tightly. Solder wick works good to wrap over the damaged spot on the braid it can be spot soldered on if you wish. We can replace the braid and heat shrink but not the spark plug wire on the CHXL & RCEXL Ignition.
If the center core of the lead is cut or almost worn to the center conductor, you will need a new spark plug lead. If your spark plug lead is not covered with heat shrink this would be a good time to so.
The spark plug lead is not replaceable on many ignition systems.
We can replace any part on the C.H. heavy duty Ignition system.

1. Remove your old spark plug cap, boot, and associated heat shrink. Do not remove the heat shrink that covers the braid and wire. Cut the end off clean. You will probably shorten the plug lead about 1/2 to 3/4 inch when you install the new boot and cap. Remove about 1 1/4 inch of the heat shrink and leave about 1 ¼ inch of the braid and the inner plug lead exposed.

  2. Slide 1½“ of  ½” heat shrink over the plug wire then 1¼“ of 3/8” then ¾“ of 3/8” and last the wire crimp ring.

 3. Install the spark plug terminal spring by hooking the longer side into the position that you want to be the top of the plug wire. Cut the inner plug wire off so that the spring will just go past the end of the plug wire with some resistance. This will help to hold the plug wire in place, then hook in the short lead and squeeze together with pliers.
Install a ½ inch length of 3/8 heat shrink over the end of the spark plug wire and shrink with a heat gun or lighter. I put a small amount of medium CA on the spring wires before shrinking the short piece of heat shrink.



4. To install the silicone plug boot lure the boot with some liquid soap or silicone lure and push the spring into the boot. The longer wire on the spring terminal goes to the top of the plug boot. Make sure the terminal is straight in the boot. Push your spark plug into the boot and make sure the top button goes into the spring. If the spring is not straight, take a small screwdriver and square it up. Be careful and do not puncture or tear the boot.

5. Now the fun part. Bend the tabs on the steel shell over 45 degrees. Use a flat-nosed pair of pliers. Be careful and do not bend the flange on the shell I use a little vinyl glue, like household welder, on the boot . Lay the boot in the cover that has the tabs then install the cover on the other side. Squeeze together and slide the braid up over the wire and covers. Now slide the crimp ring up over the braid and cover shells. Trim off excess braid with a sharp pair of cutters. Do not crimp the ring. Install the snap ring. I do this with a set of square-nosed pliers. If you have a pair of snap ring pliers, that will work for this, go ahead and use them. Usually when I try to use snap ring pliers the ring goes flying off into the wild blue yonder never to be seen again. Install the gap in the snap ring 45 degrees to the seams on the cover. Do not distort the ring, it must be tight to hold the cap on the spark plug and make a good ground.
Use some sort of clamp and squeeze the shells together and a small tack hammer to bend the tabs down as far as you can. Then crimp the tabs down with a good pair of square-nosed pliers. I have a pair of pliers that I have cut notches in to help bend the tabs down. I usually have about a dozen pair of pliers out by the time I am done. A small pair of vice grips work good for a clamp if you pad the jaws good so you do not scratch the beautiful stainless steel cover.



 6. Crimp the retaining ring on the back of the cover. Put some vinyl glue around the crimp ring and slide the short piece of heat shrink over the ring and shrink it down. Then slide the other two pieces of shrink over the rear of the cap and shrink with a heat gun.



  Set back and admire your work. 
Read CHRCEXL instructions to install and remove the cap from the spark plug.
We solder the tabs to make it a little stronger. Do not try and do this if you do not have the solder flux for stainless steel. You will just make a mess of it.

For 10mm plugs.

1. If you are installing the cap for the NGK-CM-6, 10MM spark plug there are a few changes. If your ignition uses a resistor spark plug lead (carbon core) you do not need a resistor in the cap. If your ignition has a copper stranded core you need to install a resistor in the cap. We will install the 5.1K resistor in the cap if we know that is what you need.
There are some other small changes as follows when you use the CM-6 spark plug. This is not a resistor plug

2. If you are installing the CM-6 cap on a stranded wire spark plug lead, leave only about one inch of center conductor exposed. Fold the braid back just like we did above for the larger spark plugs. Using the small brad (nail), found in your plug cap package, poke a hole into the center of the spark plug conductor twisted copper core. Go in about 3/8 inch. Center the resistor lead in the spark plug boot and push the resistor lead into the hole in the plug lead center conductor. Use a small amount of thick CA on the plug wire. Hold the boot tightly right where the resistor is in the boot. You do not want to push the other end of the resistor lead out through the silicone boot. This will cause the sparks to leak out. The rest of the cap is installed the same as the larger plug.
If your ignition system has a carbon core resistor lead, you do not need a resistor in the cap. On this lead push the small brad into the carbon core about 3/8 inch with a small amount of CA on the nail. Leave the nail in the wire and cut off to about ¼ inch long. Push the spark plug lead into the boot and the nail will go between the coils on the spring contact, and then when you push the spark wire plug into the boot, it will all squeeze together and make a good contact. DO NOT leave the nail long enough to go clear through the boot.